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Formentera
Subject: Autumn Briefing
Date: Sun, 24 Oct 1999 07:46:09 +0100
The windward beaches of Formentera are now the subject of the occasional "winter" gale and no longer plastered with the naked bodies of the international holiday set. Just along from Sabina harbour is the Shark beach bar, which shuts this weekend. I was there mid season and you could hardly find standing room, now it's only the green lizards that fight amongst themselves for the best "pitch" and that is if the mid-day suns up. However, the sea is still just warm enough for me to swim in. Fae is hardier than I am and I suspect she will be still snorkeling long after I've taken to just sunbathing. The days are very mild with sudden sunsets by 19.30ish. On one or two beaches is a type of drift wood sun shelter built by tourists out of sheer pleasure. One notable example was erected in 1993 and is called Beach Bar
IIX. It has a windmill on top and its sea worn teak planks speak volumes. It has a sign "booking" it for the builders again July 2000 for two weeks! Their names are carved on the table and people are asked to "enjoy and maintain" until they get back! In the small harbour of Sabina, which is now our home until March 2000, not a day goes by without another shop/bar closing for the winter. We know that by the end of this month we will be down to the hard core that stay open ....not many! The fast ""cat" ferries, which can carry 120 people and run at 26
knts, only run half the number of journeys as they did in the Summer. The slow car carrying boats still plod over from Ibiza. The season here is July 1st to August 31st and the day before and day after prices are reduced for apartments/rooms etc. In July and August the anchorages are packed. On a typical August day I estimated that up to £200 million pounds worth of yachts were within half a mile of us. After all this is where Gucci brought his boat. For two hectic months it's the place where you can see Madonna, Prince, and even EastEnders "stars" ... (one of the latter asked us to look after his dinghy so they could walk along the beach! There are plenty of 30+ metre super yachts with garages in the stern for the water bikes and other "toys". We have been around the Balearics now since the 12th of July and had some very interesting experiences ashore and afloat. We nearly lost the boat on the rocks in San
"Headbanger Bay" Antonio having gone to bed after a party on board, in mirror flat conditions, at 02.00 hrs in the morning and been battling to sort out dragging anchors in a gale at 04.00 hrs!! (Clears hangovers in seconds). On that occasion we had to dump our two main anchors and 30 metres of chain and recover them at first light. We carry six anchors so we had some spares!! The Med is no push over and the swell can build up in an hour to over 2 meters, without any wind, if there is a gale somewhere out at sea. Several people have visited us and they all seem to have enjoyed it, the boat has proven to be an excellent home to all of us. We have had many chance meetings with other "Sea Travelers" and exchanged drinks or meals, all the time swopping information on
harbours, where to post letters, get fuel, moor, anchor or what to avoid.
Date 28 0CT 1999
Lat. 38Deg 44.120 N Long 001Deg 25.024 East
Time 21.10 hrs
Wind SW 18 Knts
Temp 18C
Humidity 74%
We have spent over 60 nights at anchor in many different calls and bays. Even had to move in lightening storms at midnight, and enjoyed many, many wonderful calm days swimming or visiting ashore.
Still it was good to "get inside" Sabina harbour on a long period mooring contract for the winter period. We are secured with two warps from the bows and seven mooring ropes onto the concrete quay. Just as well as we have had winds up to 50 knots. The harbour is well sheltered from the swells. Also virtually no tides here but the barometer pressure and winds can alter sea levels by as much as 1
metre. Sadly our Spanish leaves a lot to be desired! Although most days in the summer have had classic Med weather we have seen three yachts go onto the rocks due to storms, also some appalling seamanship from charterers with huge power boats who think they are in a car. Watching a 20m power boat drift down an anchorage out of control and "collect" a few boats as it goes by is not unknown. Despite the tales above we have had a great time, with many days of light NE winds. We spent some time in an Ibiza farmhouse in the hills with no mains running water, flushing loos or electricity. The peacefulness of the forested hills was enlightening in itself. They had a huge water reservoir under the house, which fills from the roof with rainwater. The old farmhouse had ancient wooden beams covered with charcoal then seaweed then tiles. Some walls were clay lined - which gives out moisture in the dry days and collects in the damp ones. I'm now well over a stone lighter than my "City Body" and a lot fitter. I don't wear a watch. The quality of Spanish supermarket food is excellent and local
veg/meats seem of a different quality from UK. However I know I will miss the winter fireside! Fae will NOT! We are planning to leave here in early spring for Minorca then to Greece via Sardinia, still that is the next millennium. We shall be in the UK for Christmas and a young couple will be "boat sitting" Tirla while we are away. Currently we find Formentera very magical in the "off" season, as I'm sure do its 5,000 population who are resting after the battering from the tourists. Its actually rained a few times and Spring has sprung with tiny purple and white wild flowers on much of the stony ground and new green leaves on some of the pine trees.
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