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Anchored off Torre Grande
21.3.2000
39deg 54.14 North 8 Deg 30.85 East
14.40 Hrs
17.4C
53% Humidity
Baro 1020
Wind NW 3
We have been here since Sunday at midnight. Yesterday was a sleep catching, clean up and dry out day!
To day we tackled a problem on the Profurl jib reefing system. One of the foil sections holding the Genoa luff had uncoupled and was working its was through the front leading edge of the sail. It may be the genoa luff was set too slack and when I tightened the halyard two days ago the section must have lifted and the trouble began. We noticed it about a day into our journey from Mahon.
Robert was kitted out with twin hoist ropes one on a block at the top of the mast the other running through the mast on a sheave. That way the safety rope is not reliant on a shackle.
Luckily the wind dropped and at the mast top Robert discovered the hoist rope sheave had distorted and needed replacement. This since Verena was at the top of the mast checking everything there in Formentera prior to leaving.. He attached himself with a temporary second rope and replaced the whole block.
By securing to the spinnaker halyard, which comes down to the pushpit , he was able to swing out onto the genoa furling foil. The genoa was then unfurled. After a considerable struggle Robert managed to re-align the foil section and retighten the grub screws. The genoa was then lowered and Fae and Verena worked on the repair. We carry sail tape for emergency repairs and it has always proved very reliable and does not have to be stitched. The luff had been cut in two places within two inches by action of the foil sections working against each other. All the foil sections were then checked and several had loose screws.
The genoa was then
rehoisted.
The photograph
above
shows Robert aloft and by his right hand can been seen the gap where the sections had slipped apart.
On board it pays to have many different skills and all the spares you may need. With twin masts we have a great deal of options and indeed we also have a second jib which could have replaced the genoa if it could not have been repaired.
Robert, Verena and Fae have gone ashore in the dingy with credit card but no money. The wind is parallel to the shore and no surf. They have the portable VHF in case there is a sudden change and I can warn them from the ship.
In the better visibility of today there seems to be a huge net, possibly for tuna, which was invisible at night.
A several hundred duck, too far away to identify, are around. Also a pair of eagle/kites were floating around on the thermals. On the beach there are a few people using sea rods.
I think the ducks may be Wigeon as a posse of Lesser Blackback Gulls and strangely enough a possible Merlin Falcon have cut off a loaner from the flock. The Wigeon is flying low to escape but the gulls swoop down onto it forcing it into the sea time after time. Exhausted it flies no more and the screaching gulls move in. The area around the ball of floating feathers goes oily and the execution is done. The Falcon never got a look in.
Over to the south west of the bay NATO's metal equivalents are practicing on the aerial bombing range. Several types of aircraft dive in and straff and bomb an unseen target on the hillside. Dull thuds echo across the bay.
I've heard by radio from the shore party that Italian lire have been secured and they are in a supermarket spending it! It's nearly 19.00hrs they will need to get back soon before dark. There will be a full moon and in the bay the sea is now nearly flat calm.
Anchored off Torre Grande
23.3.2000
39deg 54.14 North 8 Deg 30.85 East
10.00 Hrs
14.8C
70% Humidity
Baro 1021
Wind SE 20 to 25 knts
We have now been anchored awaiting favorable winds since Sunday evening.
Its now beginning to blow again from the South East. There are reasonable size waves outside as the shallow area of the bay where we are causes steeper seas. The wind is blowing parallel to the coast and we are well in the bay so not getting any outside sea if wind stays this way.
The weather chart shows we are still jammed between two lows but we expect this to change over the next three days.
Luckily with two hulls people can find plenty of private space to read, cook, write or use the PC.
Yesterday we used a lot of power to make water, run the fridge and use the PC for many hours. When the wind increased in the evening we test ran the small 12volt generator and found it works but not charge. Its very old and may have suffered from damp. We changed from the water propeller on the wind generator and hoisted it. This morning batteries are fine and some 8 to 10 amps is going in from solar (dull day) and wind.
We are in 5 meters lying to a 16 kilo Delta anchor 30 meters of 3/8th chain and 12 meters of rope. A second Delta anchor is always ready to go with 9 meters chain and rope. Also a third Fortress 23 is prepared in the stern locker. Two further anchors could be brought into use but I feel we are well prepared !!
As we don't roll its only slight pitching, Robert mentioned that in a mono hull at this time with the waves it "would be a fight round the bucket!"
Quite what the locals think I don't know. Well, four days spent 2,000 meters from Sardinia and I have not been ashore yet. Even the Widgeon have pushed on and gone.
12.30 hrs
With the slight risk of up to force seven, and possibly going south westerly, we called the Puorto Turistico
Torre
grande on channel 9 VHF and asked if they had an available berth. This was no problem and we were secure along side with the help of the marina staff by 13.30am.
Mooring for us is about £14 a day with electricity and water included. They also have good facilities such as a 65 ton boat hoist and shower block etc. A separate part of the marina with a different entrance is for an active local fishing fleet who seem to use long nets and vast lines of fish/lobster pots. There are some 400 berths for boats up to 30 meters. The approach is over relatively shallow water from where we had anchored.
Oristano, a town of some 30,000 people is about 8 kilometers away. Tharros, a punic-Roman town is 15 minuets away by car but I guess the Roman shops shut some time ago!
The late afternoon sky is full of wind so it looks like a good idea to be inside the marina. The wind is whistling through the wire rigging.
Please
find
above
a
photograph
of
Tirla
drying out after at anchor in Golfo di
Oristano, west coast of
Sardinia.
Moored in Porto Turistico Torregrande
25.3.2000
39deg 54.12 North 8 Deg 29.47 East
10.19 Hrs
15C
82% Humidity
Baro 1021
Wind SE 20 to 25 knts
Yesterday we used the bikes/buses to visit Oristano and Cabras.
On the road side going to Oristano were several stalls selling live black large sea urchins.
Oristano had a very well painted Town Hall but the buildings round the principle square were "showing signs of wear!"
All attempts to hire a car at Avis, Oristano proved impossible due to "No cars available" which was odd as they were all lined up outside!!
The towns people, however, were very friendly and everywhere we went all stared at the strange aliens on odd bikes. This includes people riding mopeds flat out but looking backwards at us. Several times cars came along side and slowed down to get a good view!
In another local town Robert and I went for a drink in the town square bar. We were received with reserve and served with large beers at half tourist rates. An elderly Italian spent ten minuets talking to us but we kept saying "Sorry no comprode" and smiling a lot, the bar maid later explained to Robert, in fluent German, that we were being offered additional attractions which were, to say the least, quite intimate!! In Cabras we found a sea sport shop called "Mare Sport Di Simbula Giovanni". Cabras is some 4.5 kilometers from the marina and that's inland. Yet we were able to buy two new blocks of exactly the size and type we needed for the ships supplies. They also had a drum of 10mm pre-stretch halyard line. I said we would return in the morning with the measurement for the right length of rope we required. However there was not a common language between us but everyone understood what was arranged.
So today we coupled up the trolley to one of the Strida bikes and Robert and I set off to get ships stores and visit a supermarket.
At the sport shop they phoned Christina who came over to help as she spoke excellent English.
Between Domenico Simbula, also I think his father and sister, his girlfriend, and her sister Christina all went well. We left with 50 meters of 10mm halyard line and a gift of an excellent bottle of home made white wine. They great joy was they also did not mind me paying by
Mastercard.
At the local supermarket, there were several in Cabras, Mastercard was not taken but the variety of food, drink and meat was very good. Fae and Verena found that Italian Supermarkets can even have a large shelf devoted only to pasta FOR PETS!
The wind continues to be SE …. The pilot book says that in a typical March this area gets 12% SE'ly winds. We have come to realise that all local weather is a series of unusual events that have never happened before!
In the afternoon an Italian couple drove me all over the place to get two gas bottles changed. They were very kind and again we could not converse due to language differences! During the trip with them we went to Oristano (Marine shop shut), an LPG car gas station, then a swimming pool where they had contacts, after a few phone calls off to a supermarket in Cabras, but alas, camping gas but in tiny bottles. No problem, man at supermarket lept into a van and we followed to the Butan Gas shop. Great joy they filled both bottles and charged double ! Never mind we need that gas if we had to sail to Greece direct. I was pleased we were back to full gas supplies of three bottles. Its amazing how kind people can be the Italian couple spent most of their Saturday afternoon to help us.
26.3.2000
At sea
Motoring across, at 5.6 knts, Golfo Di
Oristano
Torre Grande
Heading 223DegM
10.50 Hrs
15.3C
75% Humidity
Baro 1019
Wind NIL
We have all the weather predictions including a three day barometric charts. The interpretation of which is different by the Spanish, Italian and French! There are possible gales to the north of us. Anyway we will go towards Isola di San Pietro and see whats what.
11.00hrs
Wind 8knts NW
Engines up and under main mizzen and Genoa. The repairs to the latter look perfectly O.K. so far.
Watch system implemented and Hydrovane working.
Sea slight. We must sail round Capo Frasca and then head south keeping some 3 to 4 miles off shore.
Wind dropped to nil we tacked on a wind shift and rapped all our fishing lines in one great big mess. It took me a long time to sort out.
27.3.2000
07.25am
Main, genoa
Heading 90DegM
13.7C
77% Humidity
Baro 1015
Wind WNW 11 knots true
During last evening we were struck by a strong wind front, thunder and lightening all around. The wind rapidly increased to nearly 40 knots. Verena, on watch, saw it coming well ahead and called on deck the standy crew, we had dropped the mizzen, reefed the genoa and were taking down the main sail when the fulll force of wind and horizontal rain hit. Due to the gaff/Tiki rig the power comes off straight away and things become manageable. Even though it was night the lightening helped to see what we were doing!
Later the wind died and we used one engine to go though the San Pietra channel between that island and Sardinia. The channel drops to 5meters depth and several rocks need to be avoided. We seemed to have a favorable flow with us of some .3 of a knot. There were several ships.
We are now awaiting a weather forecast to decide if we carry on to Sicily or go into Cagliari. However Navtex seems to be silent and on channel 68, continuous weather, the Italian computer has temporary forgotten English! ( Actually we got it right later because English version is on channel 82) Last night gale warnings were given for eastern Sardinia and thunder warnings for this area. However wind and sea are currently deceptively calm!
The sun came up in a wonderful pink show.
10.53am
38deg50.6 N 9Deg 12.9 E
Approx twenty miles south of Mt. Marias SE Sardinia
14.1C
Baro 1016
Coaster and Main
Wind Westerly 15 to 20 knts true
Forecast Southerly Gale Force Eight
Speeds up to just under 10 knots and boat is running fast and stable. Warning of thunder storms and possible westerly gale force 7 in this area. The main is held by twin main sheets, as per normal, and also a toppling lift ensuring no danger of a
gybe.
The sea is flecked with white crests. Verena is dusting the floors! Coffee cups don't move and life goes on as usual.
Electricity is pouring out of the towed generator and the solar panels. If the regulators cut in I will set the watermaker going to use up spare power.
Next waypoint is the Island of Vocano some 30 nms due west of the Messina Straits. The waypoint is 273 miles away bearing 94 degrees.
Only seen one ship, a container vessel, since daylight.
13.15 am
Wind WSW 20 - 25Knts
Took the coaster down and gybed then set genoa as wind increased and going slightly more SW.
We had been surfing up to 14 knts in comfort but not quite the right direction, i.e. 70 deg as apposed to 95 deg. Now exactly on course doing 6 to 10
knts.
We passed two fishing boats which seemed to be pair trawling.
We had a dolphin escort a few miles back but I think they got bored. Its interesting to watch them arch their backs and surf in the top of the waves. They also fly right out of a wave into the valley. If you stand on the bows they turn their heads to look up!
Sea now full of white crests and 3 meter following swell.
Isle Volcano now 258 miles away at 95
degM.
Bright sunlight and 15.7C outside.
The faster we go ( up to the point where the sails can be safely taken down) running or quartering the seas the less strain on the hulls. Large waves wash under our 1 meter keels with ease and steering can be done with one finger, one active finger!!
We have made about 8 litres of water and don't need any more, voltage 13.4.
Its good to see everyone settle into their own routine which off watch usually ignores the fact that one is sailing, you get enough of that when its your turn.
28.3.2000
15.45am
Reefed enoa
Heading 106DegM
15.4C
85% Humidity
Baro 1010
Wind SSW 17 to 35 knots true
The boat has been fully shut down for storm conditions as we received a gale warning when mid way across the top end of the Canal de Siciile. Hence 85% humidity in the chartroom!
We experience very confused breaking seas, up to 7 meters, from different directions as Tirla approached 40 miles off the coast of Sicile. The sea bed in places varies from 150m to 2,600 meters deep! As the wind reached towards 40 knts we ran off under tiny jib and lashed the main and mizzen booms to the deck. The para anchor was made ready to use but we surfed at slow speed with the larger very steep waves. All looks set for a real blow. Prepared food, checked all items on deck, rechecked voltage on main batteries. Put portable VHF, flashlight etc by helm. Flares are always ready in position. Plotted position, no safe havens we can reach but plenty of free sea room. Looks ugly.
Now, four hours later it calmed down to 20 knts and the gale forecast has been changed from south easterly to southerly. We are making 5.5 knts in less rough conditions on a course of 106 degM across the ground. Out of the mist came I.de Ustica on the starboard bow. We hope to lay Isle Volcano and perhaps anchor in the lee of the north of the Island.
Everything is salt damp inside as our oil skins have been continually drenched. Our canvas cockpit cover is a must and gives excellent protection.
Soon we will have to decide what options we have. Will the predicted southerly gale suddenly come up ?
28.3.2000
21.36pm
Reefed enoa
Heading 106DegM
15.1C
81% Humidity
Baro 1010
Wind SSW 17 to 22 knots true
After three days at sea., gale force winds and steep swells its challenging to get out of ones bunk with total delight. As usual at this time Roberts asleep off watch in the port hull. Fae is on standby and Verena is in command, the latter are both on deck. I grope for the light switch, turn it on and swing my legs onto the floor. I'm wearing underclothes and a light shirt and soaks . All slightly one degree salty. My feet stand on my life jacket, which is a shame as they were nearly dry and the life jacket is soaked. Good start. I reach out of my cabin and grab a thin fleece type pullover noting that my back temperature is falling fast. Putting it on sorts out the back problem. The boat is swaying and pitching, its force 7 again outside, I stand up find my trousers and hop about on a damp floor as I put these on. Soaks now well damp. My oil skin trousers are handing up with my sea boots vulcro'ed into them so I step straight into the kit. Braces on Oils skin top on. Relocate life jacket and safety harness. Put these on. At last, ready for the deck. Now I can relax. Oh No! .. need to go to the "heads". Process reversed and then repeated. I go on deck with perfect timing to head butt the spray arching over from a particularly large wave. Now where are we, 64 miles to Is Salina and a possible anchorage. Reefed genoa, cloudy dark night, no moon. Who was it wanted to sail the Med to Greece in March? Never mind off watch in four hours then four hours later it will be the same again!
29.3.2000
09.00hrs am
Full mainsail plus genoa
Heading 180DegM
14.9C
82% Humidity
Baro 1011
Wind SE 15 to 18 knots true
Forecast NW 4
Suns up in, at last a clear blue sky. Just on our port side is the Island of Alcudi. Valcano is almost exactly up wind and where we would like to go! Alcudi is as Robert says " Just a big rock and nothing else." Its 675 meters high and a 2.5 kilometers wide. Its part of the Lipari Islands some 35 miles off the north coast of Sicily.They are thought to be thw "wandering rocks" Circe described to Odysseus. The pilot book tells me that Stromboli and Gran Cratere on Volcano are still active volcanoes. There are seven Islands in total. Known locally as the "Aeolian triangle" where there is an uncommon amount of bad weather. ( Nothing new to this trip!) Named after Aeolus, god of the winds, he was the one who gave Odysseus the contrary winds tied up in a bag!
Isola Salina also has underwater volcanic activity with sulphueretted hydrogen bubbling up from the sea bed.
Forty minuets left on my watch and then it's a hot water shave and shower in the large blue bucket!
"The Master" has the helm. (Our Hydrovane.) Robert and I are "watching".
11.05am
NO WIND
Sails flapping, full sun. The wind has spent three days hunting us now the roles are reversed!
Had a panic when I glanced down a thumb hole, for lifting a hull deck cover in the port hull, and saw water right to the top of the locker! Must be a leak, heavens … however it turned out to be a full bottle of lemonade directly under the thumb hole!! All the time when on board we automatically listen to the ships noises and look at the tension of the stays or the halyards etc. It's a constant unconscious thing and binds you into every sinew of the boat around us. After all we are only 11 mm from 2,000 meters depth of sea and we would rather the boat kept the sea in its rightful place.
11.15 declared "Happy hour", deck crew have lowered and are running the starboard engine as no wind at all.
Might fish, triumph of hope over experience?
Current plan to anchor for the night off the Isand of Salina.
Now over 400 miles from Oristano Gulf.
15.39 pm
Running before a NW 3
Coaster only
Very hot and sunny
Ran watermaker but air from big sea in the system. Cleared air all OK. 5 amp from solar and 3.5 Amp from towed prop generator. Fishing with spinner astern. No luck yet.
16.00 hrs
Decided if we run engines, wind now only 8 knts, we will make the harbour of Santa Marina Salina. Both engines down running at 7 knts.
17.00 hrs
The Island of Salina is dramatic and quite different to anything we have seen so far. Huge cliffs rise vertically from the sea, a cloud is forming on Mount Fossa, the top of which is some 962 meters high, its curling over and streaming SE across the mountain. It looks as if part of one of the
extinct volcanic peaks has blown out leaving a huge creator with several houses now built in it!
18.30
Secured stern on in the only slot available in the southern basin. We are surrounded by local fishing boats. The port looks very attractive and unspoiled. We are in a spiders web of lines, as are the local boats, plus our anchor rowed out across the harbour to hold the bows.
Dinner then sleep and tomorrow we will go ashore. We have little Italian money left and this does not look like a
"Mastercard" location!
The lights of the local restaurant promise R and R …
22.30
Robert claims to have seen the flames of Stromboli or was it the effect of excellent of the Italian wine!
The
above
photo
is
of
the
para
anchor
which
can
be
deployed
in
gales
from
the
bow
on
300m
of
warp
and
20m
of
braids,
it
holds
the
bows
to
the
waves.
The
photograph
above
shows
wash
day
at
Torre
Grande.
The
above
photo
is
of
checking
out
the
restaurants
in
Santa
Marina.
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