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30.3.2000
Santa Maria, Island of Salina
Thursday
Sunny day
Moored in the part built southern Basin. Full crew leave today. Everyone wandered off feeling strange on solid land. The Island is so unusual and for me was almost unknown till we came here. Its people are so friendly. There are “real” fishermen, farmers, etc It has not lost itself to the tourist trade by its architecture or attitude. We are all impressed but tired.
31.3.2000
Friday
Rain in the early morning then the sun came out.
In the morning a local 11 meter fishing boat came back from a day and night away. Unloaded into a three wheel motorbike/van went six medium size tunny. There were smiles all round as I took a photograph
Fae and I did some extensive shopping not the least of which was to find the fish merchant and THAT tunny. Local shopping is a real experience we enjoy wherever we go. It can bring many surprises. Mars bars next to fruit you’ve never seen, local wine and shop gossip. The butchers here are very enterprising with different way of preparing meats and poultry. We bought
chicken boned rolled and stuffed with something we did not know and rosemary.
We found that Tuna and bought four stakes from the tail end getting there only just in time.
1.4.2000
Saturday
In the night the wind began to blow from 02.00hrs. We had two anchors out. By 06.30 we had three out! Then changed one for a fisherman type to suit the area of sea bed where it was to go.
The wind is blowing directly from this harbours vunerable side.
A local fisherman took our 100litre flexible tank and two 8 litre water bottles and filled them returning and refusing even to take a beer. Its difficult to make water in the harbour in case any oil goes into the ceramic water filter.
4.4.2000
10.00 Hrs
Tuesday
21.4C
Baro 1002
66% humidity
Red sand on deck and very hazy. Yesterday went round the island on a moped. Lots of sheer drops and “z” bends! The woman in the hire shop told the crew of the only other visiting yacht that we were in the dust of Mount Etna. Looking around the boat its odd to see floating boulders of pummice stone the size of footballs!
We have enjoyed the visit and also took the opportunity to go by
hydrofoil
to Lipari. This was a very fast 40 knot ride which took about 20 minuets. The main town had a different atmosphere to Santa Marina and was on a much larger scale.
See
Photo
above
of
hydrofoil
We are preparing for possible start on the last section from here through the Messina Straits then to Greece.
There is a chance of SW/West winds.
Robert and Verena left by hydrofoil for a visit to Lipari.
21.22 Hrs
Wind SW 20 knts gusting up to 45 knts
Barometer plunged to 994.
Temp 20.7C
During the afternoon the wind gradually increased and the went SW with growing seas. The other side of the harbour began to suffer from rolling seas cutting round the end of the breakwater. Many local small open fishing boats are on pontoons on that side.
Robert and Verena’s returning hydrofoil turned back to Lipari and they phoned to say they were stuck over there!
On our side fisherman gathered around the larger boats and began putting out more lines. We did the same.
See
Photo
above
of
fish
caught
by
fisherman
By now I have six stern ropes and on the portside I have taken ropes to the next fishing boat. Also three of our largest warps from the anchor winch, main cleat and maim mast have gone ashore upwind. A fishing boat took a huge warp over the other side of the harbour in a launch. They came back and took a rope over for us as well. These were secured to the new pontoons which have large chains and concrete blocks.
Just before dark a vast dust and earth coloured cloud blew off
Lipari.
So we are trussed up like a turkey. Our only defense would be to start the engines to hold the stern off the quay. We have our main anchor left but its too late to lay it unless desperation sets in. The waves inside here would be a handful for the dingy.
If any other boat broke free we would have few options but to stand and fend off as best we could.
Looks like a long night and little sleep.
The wind should go west at some point, and we will be sheltered from the worst seas, but there is a wind venturi effect down the side of this high mountain right along the harbour side.
I continually check the ropes for chaff and ensure they stay the correct tension.
5.4.2000
02.09 Hrs
Baro 1001
Still up. The gale has had a go from every direction. Currently the seas are again building inside the harbour. However at least the low is moving past fast as the barometer shows. This should cause the wind to go more west and give us the shelter we need. A few gusts over 50 knts which take the water up into the air, then the wind drops, often to as little as 5 knots, then bang back it comes. Both boom ends are lowered on deck to reduce windage. Fae’s up as well and in typical English fashion we are having a cup of tea!
04.30 Hrs
Baro 1003
Had to get outboard off the dingy which had been on standby in case of emergency.
Some lightening.
08.41 Hrs
Baro 1007
This series of fronts is really moving very fast NE. Another gust over 40 knts. Temperature has dropped to 14.7C. Heavy cloud. I wonder if Robert and Verena will back here today! I expect they will. All the time it’s the worry that a rope goes and we fall back towards the quay. White waves still inside the harbour. Air turbulence from mountain causing waterspouts to try to start but they collapsed all the time.
Eventually the barometer went up 20 millibars in 23 hours from 994 to 2014 and by the next day a staggering 1022.
Every day we had winds over the mountain counter blasts up from the other direction were frequent.
I went off in search of potable water and got 70 litres from the fishermen’s own supply.
We understand the fishing boats must permanently leave the marina basin next year and for the larger boats there seems no where for them to go. This seems hard as for several it’s the only source of income and its no easy way to earn money, the seas around here can be very tretcherous.
A new camping gas bottle refill was £10! ( Usually £3 in Spain)
7.4.2000
10.22 Hrs
Friday
Slight fluffy clouds with lots of sun.
15.6C
Baro 1022
64% humidity
AT SEA
Robert and Verena made it back from Lipari by ferry a day late!
We left Santa Marina at 08.30 hrs this morning with a promise of force 5 North westerly and that’s what we have had. It took us nearly an hour to raise our three anchores and get in the twelve separate warps. Still they had kept us safe in 50K plus gusts and a very rough night inside the harbour.
We can see Stromboli and Volcano smoking…
The coast of Italy and Sicily are clearly in view and mountainous.
We are running the coaster and main and are only 14 miles from the start of the Messina straits.
We do know a weather front is rocketing down Italy towards us but will it actually arrive?An Austrian yacht with five crew is missing in the Ionian.
We actually have two yachts at sea, on the horizon, seemingly heading for the Straits as well. So, the season may have started!
Making 10 to 15 amps from towing and solar panels. Water being produced at a great rate which is good as we are low.
Lots of VHF traffic from the big ships in the Straits. We think we may even have the south going tide with us.
Off watch I ground a whole load of excellent Italian coffee bans and read a book at the same time
8.4.2000
02.10 Hrs
Saturday
13.5C
Baro 1022
68% humidity
Wind E 12K
Just finished my watch. We have now done 90 miles since leaving Santa Maria. Untill early this evening it was a classic run with mainsail and coaster. In fact we averaged about 8 knots to the Messina Straits and carried the main and coaster right through. The scenery was very interesting with mountains many bridges, ferries, tankers, container ships etc. Mount Etna soured majestically over on the port side and looked huge.
There was much more residentual buildings along the coast than I had expected. At night the mountains were a blaze of twinkling lights.
We met a Norwegian yacht but we passed them quite fast, they were rolling a lot in the following seas.
The Italian hill top towns are all lit up as are some of the huge rock faces. Very impressive.
Unfortunately we are now headed by the wind and are tacking against it and the flow into the Straits.
The wind is very cold and all of us on deck are wearing about three layers.
There is still a lot of coastal traffic and great care has to be taken, many are
large ships with limited maneuverability possibly not expecting a yacht in the
darkness. We have used our search light to highlight our sails to ensure a ship closing us knew we were a yacht.
We should be getting NW winds but there not here as yet.
Still I’m off to sleep and leave the current problems to the watch on deck!
I think its going to be a frustrating time till the wind sorts itself out.
13.37 Hrs
16.4C
Baro 1023
64% humidity
Wind veriable force one
We have given up crossing the Ionian today as no wind and 180nm to go! From internet we got a three day animated weather map and it shows little wind till Monday and then possibly a southerly breeze.
So we are making for Rocella Ionica a new Porto Turistico which may not have all its facilities yet. It is however a large ( 500 berths ) and safe harbour. The village of Rocella Ionica is said to be three km away. There is some silting reported in the entrance but with smooth seas we can slowly go in using the echo sounder. Distance to go 8 nms bearing 5 Deg
Mag.
YES AT LAST caught a very good size Tuna which will give us enough meat for days! It took the splashing lure and we brought it aboard without too much trouble. BBQ tonight in port, just as well we have no fresh meat left.
From being a cold night its now very hot on deck in the sun.
See
ahove
photo
of
a
wine
vineyard.
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