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(Readers please note that in Greece the names naturally derive from their alphabet, hence names in the text appear in different forms, as they do on our charts, maps and documents!)
8.4.2000
16.10 Hrs
Saturday
14.5C
Baro 1022
65% humidity
Wind E 10Knts
We carefully entered the harbour at Rocella Ionica; it has silted since being constructed. We selected a vacant area of concrete wharf and moored alongside. It’s a first class built marina but as yet not finished. Many local boats, large commercial fishing boats from Sicily, the Guarda di Finanza, Carbinieri, and Coast Guards have gunboats and bases here. We were quickly and politely asked for all ships’ papers. We moored at the far end of what is obviously a very safe haven and found a few foreign yachts. (German, Finnish, English and French). Three had wintered in Tunisia one in Malta. All were bound for Greece.
12.4.2000
12.04 Hrs
Wednesday
14.0C
Baro 1005
85% humidity
Wind NW 10Knts
During the last few days we have visited the local town and climbed up to the huge castle ruins. In town the tradition of putting up posters announcing those who have recently died comes as a surprise, also the pictures of the dead on the grave stones.
The local supermarket is very close and full of good food at sensible prices. We have stocked up on long life milk and cheese. We used the bike with its “trailer” attached and it can carry a full supermarket trolley load.
(Photo
above
shows
Fae wondering if I should have been allowed out to the supermarket on my own! Also Tirla wash day!”)
Next to us in the marina is a Kingfishers nest and they are beautiful birds to watch. I was surprised to see one living and “working” a salt-water area. Yesterday there were on-shore winds and as the harbour entrance is shallow, huge rollers ran across the entrance making it impossible for boats to enter or leave. Inside all was peace and tranquility. We are opposite the Albanian shore and the Carbinieri seem to patrol the marina by car every 15 minutes by day and night. They are really on the alert. Still it makes us feel safer. It poured with rain most of the morning, much to the delight of the locals who have had little rain for many months.
One of the yachts has told us that the Greek Government is taxing all foreign boats on a monthly basis. How much we don’t know. Several here have said that if that is so they will go quickly to Turkey.
13.4.2000
09.58 Hrs
Thursday
16.5C
Baro 1014
70% humidity
Wind NW 10Knts
2.4 knts on a course of 124 Deg
Cephalonean, (Keffallinia) our destination, is 140 nms bearing 89 Deg.
AT SEA
We left Rocella Ionica yesterday at about 18.00hrs with a very good forecast from the German and Italian stations. Only the Greeks mentioned a possibility of SE i.e. head winds for us. At first we tacked East with NW force 4 and all looked set for a quick passage. By darkness we were lolling around the inshore traffic route with 1 to 2 knots of speed and sometimes nil. Not a healthy spot to do that so we lowered an engine and motored, then tried to sail, then motored, then tried to sail etc. With the extensive shipping, and large vessels at that, I stayed up most of the night. We tracked each ship by radar but two were clearly going to keep standing on despite our right of way. We altered course 90 degrees away on both occasions, at least four miles distant from each ship, to ensure no possibility of confusion or collision.
The night was clear from cloud and had a half moon so it was like a day for night shot in a cheap movie.
Dolphins came as luminous green torpedoes and looked fantastic as they could be seen diving deep down and turning loops. We saw several satellites and commercial jets high up on the Med track off round the world.
By 06.00hrs we were down to the coaster and main. We took the latter down to give the coaster a clear airflow of only 8 knots true. In the process it wrapped itself round the furled genoa in one great lump. It took sometime for Robert and I to sort it out as the cloth was damp from dew and stuck to everything.
I’m going off watch now for four hours sleep.
We expect head wind from the SE by about midday, could the Greeks have been correct? We shall see as the other forecasters are still threatening a NW gale!
13.4.2000
14.07 Hrs
Thursday
19.1C
Baro 1014
65% humidity
Wind SW 12Knts
Up again and set the main plus the mizzen, the coaster already being used. Wonderful conditions! Slight sea, full sun and making 5.5 knts in the right direction! How things change! Trip log now 63.4nm so very slow speeds so far. We are just hoping the wind does not go SE. Now 130 nm to go to Cephalonia. Absolutely nothing in sight. The deck watch took down the Italian flag as we are now in International waters. With our speed and the sun we have plenty of electrical power so made desalinated water. We have just finished our happy hour when one beer or equivalent is allowed! Looking forward to some home made vegetable soup. Keep that wind coming as is.
13.4.2000
22.50 Hrs
Thursday
15.3C
Baro 1015
75% humidity
Wind SW 8Knts
2.8 knts on a course of 80 Deg
Cephalonean, our destination, is 92 miles bearing 93 Deg
Outside all colours are “milk mooned!” The bright moon is even blocking out the weaker stars. The sea surface is very calm and we are making a few knots an hour. Progress although slow is not uncomfortable or cold or frustrating.
In the afternoon we were treated to a pod of large whales “fluking” prior to deep diving. Their huge tails were well up into the air. As they were so far off it was not possible to identify them. Later thirty to forty of the smaller dolphin tribe were jumping well out of the water and seemed to be herding food into “capture“ circles. They worked very hard at this and took little interest in us.
We have seen no boats at all for nearly 24 hours.
During the day two huge “bangs”, like distant thunder, roared out but no explanation could be found. Not supersonic sound barrier, perhaps military gun practice. Navtex is warning of firing exercises to the north of us so perhaps that’s it. Also interestingly Navtex is also warning of some large current meter stations which are floating free in the Northern Ionian. Navigation within 50 meters is prohibited. There are many such obstacles in the sea as well as “fishing gear” such as unlit steel beer barrels etc that we passed yesterday! The wind has gone more southerly and we are now beating into the light breeze. Our position marks plod across the chart and are now over half way from Italy to Greece. I have just “run up” our spare GPS to test them, all’s well. I wonder if our first contact with the Greek officials will be the demand for this new tax. Tomorrow the Greek flag will be hoisted and it will be the fourth country (Spain, Portugal, Italy Greece) Tirla has taken us to since we left Falmouth almost exactly a year ago.
I am on standby until midnight then will be the watch leader until 02.00 hrs.
Very heavy dew, the sails are dripping water onto the decks.
14.4.2000
16.10 Hrs
Friday
16.6C
Baro 1016
85% humidity
Wind S 7Knts
At 08.00Hrs raised the Greek flag for the first time on Tirla. Tirla is making 4.5 knts in 7 knts of true wind close beating. We have the main, mizzen and genoa up and are towing the electric generator propeller plus a fishing line.
It’s wonderful Med sailing with a very slight sea and Greece about 45 miles ahead.
Our Hydrovane, known as the “Master” is steering. Once it’s set up we find it very effective. However on a cat, as we increase speed, the apparent wind goes forward and this has to be allowed for. Also the Hydrovane rudder is set off on the starboard side of the aft beam. In certain wind conditions the mizzen shades the vane but we find this not a problem. Tirla can be left without any Hydrovane or electronics or human helm and will sail on relative to most winds for a very long time. We can leave the helm alter sheets, set sails, check the chart even when sailing down wind in rough seas.
For the last 20 hours Navtex has begun to talk Greek as well as English!
14.50 hrs
20.9C
Baro 1015
Wind 10 knts SW
Clear blue sky.
With 167 nms on the trip log Fae saw the mountains of Cephalonia through the day haze. We have about 25 miles to go so if the wind holds we will be in Argostoli inlet in daylight.
18.36 Hrs
17.2C
Wind Nil
Clear blue sky
The wind failed us about an hour ago and we don’t want to get caught by the off shore night wind so we are motoring in. About 5 miles to go. We have just run into a substantial patch of oil, about a square mile is affected. It’s black sludge in parts and the rest heavy surface pollution. Our water maker is off. This is the worst Med pollution we have seen since we entered the sea in July 1999. It looks like some large ship cleaned their tanks.
16.4.2000
16.10 Hrs
Sunday
23C
Baro 1011
54% humidity
Wind NE 11Knts
Argostoli Harbour
We motored into Argostoli harbour in the dark, but with favourable moonlight, on the evening of the 14th April. Once in, with little wind, and a sheltered bay, we went stern onto the quay having dropped our anchor for the last time on this trip. We have completed some 1,176 nms from Formentera.
The next morning I was asked to go to the authorities to pay port and boat duties. They were very helpful and the paper work was soon done and we were wished a pleasant stay.
Last night we did what we have been dreaming of for so long, and walked to the Taverna opposite where the boat is moored and had roast lamb with all the Greek trimmings.
(“Verena on Tirla with one of our favorite Tavernas in the background”)
In the morning the towering hills around gave a glorious backdrop to the town
Cephalonia has an area of some 780 sq.kms and a coastline of 250 kms. Ainos its highest peak rises to 1,628 meters. The Prefecture of Cephalonia has a population of some 30,000 people and includes Ithaca. The local history is measured in thousands not hundreds of years.
Our first few days here have demonstrated the warmth of the Greek hospitality. The atmosphere is relaxed and the people friendly. Many speak excellent English even before we open our mouths to say anything! This is just as well as the alphabet here is something to behold.
(Photo
above
is
of
a
Greek
van
“ Are the Greek names a reason why some vans have to be so long!”)
We visited the vegetable market with its vast array of fruits of the earth. The girl who served us smiled and turned out to be Welsh!
We notice that a large marina is being built opposite Argostoli with a tug and crane platform lifting heavy concrete blocks into place and dredging.
Each morning the small inshore fishing boats come to the quay to sell their wares direct to the awaiting crowd. Garfish, Monkfish, Sea Bream, Octopus, Tiger prawns, types of mackerel etc etc. Many of the boats use powerful gaslights to attract the fish.
We are one of only three yachts here as it is still early in the season.
Domestic boat issues continue. We need water soon, it’s available on the quay and comes from deep wells, the area is blessed with a clay strata that acts as a catchment basin. One local told me it is very safe to drink but has an “interesting” taste! We have that pleasure to come. We also need to change to the larger Greek gas bottle, as camping gas is expensive and in small bottles.
Kefalonia (another spelling!) sits in close proximity to the meeting place of three tectonic plates.
Several nations, from East and West, have been here over the last millennium. Recently, in 1806 H.M.S. Suffolk was in Argostoli with a 17-year-old bugler named Walter Ford aboard. Sadly he died here, I suspect it was cholera. His shipmates paid for his gravestone in the tree shaded British Cemetery opposite the town. As the picture shows
he has lain there for nearly 200
years
see
below
.
On the other side of the island near Sami a film set is nearly completed for Mr Spielbergh. He is making a film of Louis de Berniere’s book “Captain Corelli’s Mandolin”. The latter is essential reading for any visitor to Kefallinia. It tells the story of what happened here during the Second World War and although a work of fiction it is said to conform to the main facts.
In August 1953 Kefalonia, Ithaca, Lefkada and Zakynthos were subjected to a major quake with over a hundred tremors and aftershocks during a period of five days. Argostoli was virtually destroyed and six hundred people were killed and thousands injured. There was one tremor that was said to have rippled the ground like a meter high wave and shook the earth for 50 seconds. The mainly Venetian architectural heritage of Argostoli buckled under this awesome onslaught. All buildings are now built to be earthquake resistant and the massive foundations and reinforcement put into the houses and commercial structures we see being built is a constant reminder of the ’53 event.
It’s only in the last decade that the slab sided square accommodation, post 1953 is being replaced with something which includes Greek flare and imagination. Sad to say many houses in the countryside were never re-occupied.
(Above
Photo
shows
Earthquake damage from 1953.)
We have arrived just before Easter, which is the most important event in the religious calendar. Many Greek families come together for this celebration, ensuring that most transport from the big cities to the villages is crowded. After a week of fasting, where certain foods are not eaten, there follows the Friday evening processions then at midnight peels of bells and fireworks. People return to their homes, often to eat “mageritsa”. Red colored eggs are tapped one on another, the undamaged egg bringing good luck for the coming year. We have seen trays of these for sale in the shops.
In the last few days several boats have arrived. Mostly in transit.
Last night we had a “village” meet of those crews aboard yachts here. American, Dutch, German, Norwegian, British and French. Two boats had met last year in Horta, Azores arriving there from the West Indies on the same day and by chance came here as well. These little events always turn into an exchange of information and ideas plus a lot of “international” leg pulling and beers drinking!
Robert and Verena have to return to their own boat in San Antonio Ibiza. We sadly said goodbye to them this morning at 07.15 Hrs as they caught the bus. We will miss their good company and sailing skills.
Another ending and a new chapter begins. So it is all the time when one lives aboard a moving home.
Within three days the American, Dutch, German, Norwegian and French boats have left.
Jean-Eve was here one evening and, after a week of waiting, the wind went East and so in the night he slipped away for Italy. For him it is the beginning of the end of his single handed six-year voyage around the world in his 9-meter yacht. No fuss, no exhibition just quietly going about his chosen personal challenge.
Allan and Olwyn arrive from the UK on the 2nd of May.
It’s Good Friday here today, the 28th of April. The Greek Orthodox priest’s voice is drifting melodically across the water. The many churches are ringing their bells in different tunes through out the day. There will be a procession on Saturday when people come with candles to be lit at midnight; it’s an omen of good luck to return home with the flame still alight.
30.4.2000
10.16 Hrs
Sunday18CBaro 1018
64% humidity
Wind NIL
Well, last night we went to the main Square in Argostoli for the traditional Easter night celebrations. It was anything other than “traditional!” At first we sat outside at a “Gelateria” which serves coffee and wonderful ice creams. Seemingly a few thousand people of all ages filled the square. When we first arrived the central area was abandoned as hundreds of bangers were thrown, and these were seriously noisy versions. This crescendo of bangs grew louder and louder from 22.00 Hrs onwards and became non-stop. Blue smoke drifted everywhere! Red flashes of light from the bangers shadowed the trees, cars and buildings. People huddled in groups as bangs went off everywhere and anywhere. Many young women were dressed in the latest European fashions and very attractive they looked!
Just before midnight, through the constant explosions and smoke walked the priests escorted informally by the local police. They took up station by some microphones in the middle. Hundreds of bangers were thrown “nearly” in their direction. It was like “Custer’s” last stand but with partly heard religious singing from the totally surrounded group of twenty. It must have taken quite a nerve just to stand there. At two minutes to midnight the unbelievable happened, the air became one ongoing series of crashes and huge bangs. Red and white fire works screamed overhead and everyone lit the candles they were carrying. The priests bravely sang their parts and then did a tactical withdrawal. The fireworks at last eased. At four this morning we were woken with a massive bang, it was all part of the celebrations! What a night, something we won’t forget in a hurry.
I guess this is also the end of this particular web site trip “as advertised”.
There will be others and we expect to update the site from time to time while we cruise this summer. There is so much to see and do here.
We hope you have enjoyed “virtually” sailing with us. Since leaving Formentera on March 11th we have travelled some 1,176 nms through the water.
In the longer term a trip further east, perhaps next year. After that, when we have seen all we want, Tirla will turn west and go to the Canaries and onto the West Indies. However that’s a long way ahead and who knows what the future will bring.
We wish you all good sailing and many thanks for the positive feedback from our readers ………..
("Tirla moored on the quay at Argostoli”)
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