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Towards Khalkidiki

15.05.2001
At sea between Nisos Peristra and Sithonia in Khalkidiki.
39.25.420N 23.58.265 East
10.30 hrs
Temp 17.9C
Baro 1021
Wind SE1

We left Skiathos harbour yesterday and spent the night in a very still bay called Vasiliko on Peristeri Island, which is just south of Alonnisos and some 15 nm from Skiathos. It was almost deserted with three small houses, a duck, many goats (their bells rang out continuously till nightfall) and in the darkness of late evening the haunting call of a scops owl. We have heard these birds in several anchorages where the pines come down to the shore. On Skiathos we had also spotted a squacco heron, the first we had ever seen.

Today we were heading for Pelegos South bay to await the expected SE wind to get us further north again. However while crossing towards Pelegos the wind was light and already SE, so off we went towards Khakadiki. We are now 11 miles out from the Alonnisos coast in calm seas and a slight following wind. We have one engine running, the other raised out of the water, and at just over half revs Tirla is making 5.4 knts. This is a very economical way for us to run our engines. We have passed through the famous Marine Park but, alas, no sightings of the Monk seal. We have 30 miles to go to get to Porto Koufo on the southern tip of the middle finger in Khalkidiki. The latter got its name from the colonies that came from Khalkis, in Evia, around 700 to 900 B.C.

On the eastern of the three fingers lies Mt Athos (over 2000meters high) and the medieval monasteries which are situated high on cliff sides. No woman is allowed ashore, and time is reckoned by the Julian Calendar. There are coenobite monks who share all resources and idiorrhythic where each monk provides for himself. In all there are over 20 monasteries. The area also has administrative autonomy. Monks from all races are accepted. Once they enter a holy community they become Greek subjects. With Fae aboard we have to keep 500 yards off that part of the shore!!

Fae has just shouted a traditional "Land Ho! Its very misty but she can now see the shore of Khalkadiki. To starboard is the strange silhouette of the very tall lighthouse on Nisos Psathoura. Suddenly there are dolphins all round the boat, after five minutes they go as quickly as they arrived.